Imagine a vegetable so unique and beloved that it is named after the very place it is grown, and its flavour becomes synonymous with the culinary heritage of an entire region. Enter Mattu Gulla, a special variety of brinjal hailing from the quaint village of Mattu in Karnataka, just 10 kilometres away from the sacred temple town of Udupi.
Awarded the prestigious Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2011, this exotic vegetable is renowned for its distinct size, shape, taste, and aroma that set it apart from other brinjal varieties.
In this blog post, we’ll explore the origins of Mattu Gulla, its significance in Udupi’s cuisine, the challenges faced by its farmers, and why opting for heirloom brinjal varieties like Mattu Gulla is a better choice than genetically modified alternatives like BT brinjal.
The Origins of Mattu Gulla
Udupi: A Land Blessed by Nature
Located in the coastal region of Karnataka, Udupi enjoys a tropical climate, lush green landscapes, and fertile soil, making it an ideal environment for cultivating a variety of crops. Among these is Mattu Gulla, the delectable green brinjal that has become synonymous with Udupi’s cuisine.
Tracing the Roots of Mattu Gulla
The history of Mattu Gulla can be traced back to the Mattu village in Udupi, where it has been grown for centuries. Locals believe that the seeds were initially offered by Saint Vadiraja Swami, who blessed the region with this unique vegetable. Since then, Mattu Gulla has become an integral part of Udupi’s culinary heritage. This is a rare example of a vegetable which has acquired fame with religious patronage.
It is said that saint Vaadiraja Thirtaru (1480-1600) used to offer a prasad called Hayagreeva Maddi to Lord Hayagreeva (a white horse) every day.
He would keep the Maddi on his head and the lord would eat some of it and leave the rest for him. Some of the other devotees who were jealous plotted against the Saint and mixed poison in the Maddi one day.
That day the horse ate the whole Maddi and did not leave anything for Vadirajaru. The horse turned blue as did the idol of Lord Krishna at Udupi and Vadirajaru was heartbroken. Shocked and disturbed by the events, he had a dream that night where Hayagreeva explained what happened and suggested a remedy to remove the poison. Handing over a few seeds of brinjal,
Hayagreeva asked for them to be given to the Brahmins in Mattu and said that the plant would grow in 48 days. The brinjals were cooked and offered to Hayagreeva for 48 days after which the poison receded. The tradition of offering the first crop to Lord Krishna in Udupi continues to date.
The Significance of Mattu Gulla in Udupi’s Cuisine
Unique Characteristics of Mattu Gulla
Unlike other brinjal varieties, Mattu Gulla is known for its tender texture, mild flavor, and thin skin, making it a versatile and sought-after ingredient in Udupi’s traditional dishes.
Culinary Uses of Mattu Gulla
From sambar to chutneys, and from stir-fries to curries, Mattu Gulla is used in numerous ways to add depth and complexity to the region’s rich and diverse cuisine.
Cultural and Culinary Importance
Beyond its culinary uses, Mattu Gulla holds cultural significance in Udupi as it is often offered to deities during religious ceremonies and celebrations.
The Challenges Faced by Mattu Gulla Farmers
Cultivation and Marketing Difficulties
Growing and selling Mattu Gulla is not without its challenges, as farmers face issues like fluctuating market prices, climate change, and competition from GMO brinjal varieties.
Protecting and Promoting Mattu Gulla
Farmers and government authorities have undertaken efforts to protect and promote the cultivation of Mattu Gulla, including applying for a Geographical Indication (GI) tag to ensure its authenticity and to support local growers.
Growing Your Own Heirloom Brinjal
Genetically modified brinjal varieties, like BT brinjal, have faced scrutiny and opposition due to concerns over their environmental impact, potential health risks, and the dependency on patented seeds. In contrast, heirloom varieties like Mattu Gulla offer rich flavors, genetic diversity, and a connection to our culinary heritage.
Cultivating your own heirloom brinjal, such as Mattu Gulla, not only allows you to enjoy its delicious flavor but also helps preserve biodiversity and support sustainable agriculture. By growing your own vegetables, you can be sure of their quality and reduce your dependence on commercially produced varieties.
By purchasing Mattu Gulla seeds contribute to the preservation and promotion of this unique brinjal variety. Join us in celebrating the fascinating story of Mattu Gulla and experience the delicious taste of Udupi’s very own brinjal in your home cooking.
